Thousand Years of Nostalgia in the Rotation of Soup and Dishes – The Custom of Yushan Xiatang Wine (He Tang Feast) in Sanqingshan

Nestled at the northern foot of the mist-shrouded Sanqingshan UGGp, the ancient villages such as Jinxi in Huaiyu Township, Yushan County are home to a unique feast tradition that has endured for more than 800 years — Xiatang Wine, also known as the He Tang Feast. More than just a culinary delight, it serves as a folk custom for celebrating joyous occasions and strengthening kinship ties. In 2023, it was inscribed onto the municipal intangible cultural heritage list of Shangrao City.

The He Tang Feast originated from the ingenious wisdom of local villagers in an era of scarce supplies. With limited ingredients, housewives cooked home-raised livestock, poultry and mountain produce into a great variety of soups and dishes. By serving one dish and one soup in rotation, the feast appeared abundant and lively. As it is full of congratulatory sentiments, it is known as "He Tang Wine".

The soul of the He Tang Feast lies in its ingenious serving order. Lasting up to two hours, the feast features twenty to thirty dishes, all in even numbers, symbolizing double happiness. The first course is always glutinous rice cakes, signifying a sweet life. After that, a stir-fried dish and a fresh soup are served alternately in a smooth and flowing rhythm until the feast concludes with a bowl of meatball soup, bringing the grand meal to a perfect end.

The feast is often held in ancient houses or ancestral halls dating back to the Ming and Qing dynasties, where eight-seat square tables are arranged in order, bringing the young and old together in joy. On the ancient stage beside the banquet, performances by the Yushan Opera Troupe or lively music by the traditional folk music ensembles can be heard without end. Guests savor soups and dishes while enjoying grand operas, making it truly a feast featuring “soup, wine, dishes, and opera alike”. The seating arrangement follows strict etiquette, with clear distinctions between elders and juniors, fully embodying Confucian proprieties.

Xiatang Wine epitomizes the farming culture and clan bonds at the foot of Sanqingshan UGGp. With authentic mountain delicacies cooked over firewood stoves and bowls of carefully prepared soup, it tightly connects neighbors, relatives and friends. Amidst gongs, drums and laughter, it carries on the warm earthly vitality and enduring nostalgia.